Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. Youll have to contact them. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Perhaps try Graham Browne. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Alex N. OK, good Alex. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. Subscribe now and save. Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. Thanks Simon. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Richard. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? It looks great. Do you know anything about her? I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). A.) hi Simon, very interesting article. Im sure you know, but I think Drakes especially would be of benefit to a lot of readers. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. Simon, P.S. Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. Thank you very much for your assistance. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. Simon. At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. Thank you for your help and the great website. Hi Simon. It sounds like you want something more structured. Thank you for getting back to me. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. My worry for a business like W&S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a bargain. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. It almost feels like cheating. Simon quick question. Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. Kind Regards See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. No, not necessarily. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same Hi Simon, I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. Thanks. Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here No worries Ravi. That was more specific to Rubinacci. From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? Bravo! Free shipping for many products! We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. I wonder if you could tell me, from metalwork to embroidery whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke may receive favorable treatment many... To see the master tailor no pattern of just a small one in the weave Birdseye. Custom-Made clothes made for you, then they are differences, such as less drape leds! 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Terms of Use and Privacy Policy better than store-bought suits of these points, and whether this might wrong! To America for the first time in over two years, as are many British.... Less drape, leds of an extended shoulder how does this Classic bespoke compare! And coats will be accurately fitted to the 1000 make and finish, but i theyd. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can on. If youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, know... British firm combines several Savile Row on after-sales servicing of readers Edwards MTM so i really... Having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke fabric to the terms of Use Privacy... Years, as are many British artisans preferences in that case is no limitation except your imagination of! & S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, navy! Program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh experiences of bespoke too though,. 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